The Buzz Newsletter

Page 7

Step 2: Drill Large Hole
Place the presto pot upside down on a firm surface. Then, using a 19/32" drill bit, bore the hole out for the larger diameter.

Again, you should already be wearing eye protection.

Step 3: Tap Hole
Using a thread tap that is suited for the size of the brass fitting, tap threads into the pot.

You will want to back out the tap every few turns and check to see if the brass fittings can be inserted. Once they can be screwed in with some slight resistance, stop tapping.

Step 4: Prepare fittings with Teflon tape.

Using some Teflon tape, prepare the fittings as shown. Wrap the tape in a clock-wise fashion around the threads.

Step 5: Install nipple
With the nipple fitting wrapped in Teflon tape, screw it into the pot. The wrench comes in handy here.

Do not tighten it all the way to the hex. It is not necessary.

At this point, the nipple protrudes only slightly into the pot. But it is securely in place due to the presence of the threads.

Step 6: Install Ball Valve
Using a wrench install the ball valve. Pay attention to the orientation of the ball valve. The ball valve is installed in such an orientation that the valve will open as the handle is pulled AWAY from the pot.

Tighten securely. Some rotation of the nipple will occur here and that is a good thing. Tighten until the entire assembly feels relatively tight and secure. Remember though that the pot is constructed of aluminum so you will not want to use excessive force. It is easy to strip the threads in the aluminum pot. Then flip over the pot and give it any fine adjustments to make the ball valve handle level with your work surface. Add the lass fitting, the elbow. No tools are needed for this as it only needs to be hand tightened. Keep the valve handle stable as you install the elbow.

Step 7: Test for Leaks
Here is the almost finished melting pot.

The last thing to do is test for leaks. This is done by filling the pot with water. Allow it to sit for several hours. Check the fittings for any wetness that would be indicative of a leak.

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Editorial Notes:

Originally this article was targeting candle making using something other than beeswax. Beeswax must be melted at a much lower temperature than the first marking on the thermostat dial of 200 degrees to avoid catching fire. Generally this can be done by calibrating the lower part of the thermostat dial with a thermometer. Beeswax melts at around 145 degrees. A candy thermometer could be useful in monitoring the wax temperature when melting beeswax.